This blog is adapted from a video from Blacktail Studio, a Youtuber and craftsman who creates fine furniture and home decor, who is also a dear customer of Flowyline Design.
Today, they created an oversized desk from what they consider one of the most underrated, beautiful, and occasionally affordable wood species in all of North America. Clients often want walnuts (understandably), but this client thought a little outside the box and we were able to find a gorgeous piece of locally salvaged wood from a very small sawmill (like just a guy and a chainsaw small). Let’s discover how to attach slab legs to a table top and elevate your own desk creation with us!
Choosing the Layout
This desk is essentially going to be a big single slab solid wood desk with a kind of a hybrid live edge aspect to it.
1x2’s for the template
Credit: Blacktail Studio
These simple little templates really help visualize what it’s going to look like when it is all done. This one is going to be oversized so this will be around 72 by he thinks 34 inches when it’s all done, but the slab as you can see is much bigger than that so we actually have a little bit of freedom to choose exactly the best part we want to use for this desk.
Cleaning up the Burl
Sealing the crack with clear epoxy to prevent staining
Credit: Blacktail Studio
This table requires for all sides to come together and hate in one place, so this will have a straight edge, live edge, and a little bit of epoxy. At first Cam thought this was a very underrated wood, and the species being used here is elm.
This isn’t just ordinary elm; it has a good bit of burl, which is where you get the most amazing grain and color. While normal live edge sections are easy to clean up with something like a porter cable restorer, burl sections require more creativity. You need to use dental tools and a dull chisel to carefully dig out the burl while maintaining the natural shape.
Piece of melamine for the mini epoxy pour
Credit: Blacktail Studio
This slow-cure epoxy was still fairly wet, which apparently isn't ideal
Credit: Blacktail Studio
Creating a Partial Epoxy Mold
This isn’t exactly an epoxy table, but there’s a large, noticeable, and slightly obstructive yet really cool natural crack that runs about a quarter of the table's length.
Building up a "dam" around the large crack will allow you to fill thicker than the wood
Credit: Blacktail Studio
Why use black epoxy? Black is actually the most discreet color to use because many of these woods have natural black streaks, and it resembles more of a shadow than anything else. So, if you want a truly discreet void filled, black is a great choice. Black epoxy is the no-brainer.
Don't try and fill a deep crack like this with normal epoxy!
With some luck, small cracks can be sealed with this gorilla tape or a good quality duct tape. The only thing you need to remember is the epoxy needs to be relatively dry before you come back and do those later.
Lie Nielsen chisel plane
Credit: Blacktail Studio
This crack isn’t very wide but is quite deep, about two and a quarter inches thick at this point. With the overfill, it’s probably close to two and a half inches, so instead of using something like a tabletop epoxy, you can use the super clear epoxy deep pore resin. This method will allow you to fill the entire crack in one shot, so you won’t need to apply multiple layers.
Tape stick a little better now
Credit: Blacktail Studio
These foam sheets from Home Depot are great to prevent dings
Credit: Blacktail Studio
Filling the smaller cracks with table top epoxy
Credit: Blacktail Studio
Flattening the Slab
After removing as much of this caulk, let it cure for a couple of weeks. One little tip: when handling these pieces, especially after they’ve been surfaced, keep them on a styrofoam sheet from Home Depot. They only cost about seven dollars and will help prevent any dings or dents.
Adjusting the desk to make sure it's perfectly squared up
Credit: Blacktail Studio
C-Channels to Keep It Flat
Whatever table you’re building, whether it’s a big epoxy table or a single slab desk like this or a solid wood book-match, you can start the C-Channel process to give it as little opportunity as possible for it to warp and cup on you.
Starting on the C-channel process
Credit: Blacktail Studio
There are a few reasons why tables are not traditionally built from large single slabs like this. In fact, building from a single slab can be one of the worst methods. Although it may seem simple, failure to take specific precautions can result in future issues. One such precaution is using something like C-channels
Suitable C-channels can prevent your one slab table from deforming
Credit: Flowyline Design
Available at: Reinforce C-Channels for Tabletop
What do C-channels do? Will they prevent cracking or splitting? C-channels primarily help keep the table flat. Unlike traditional tables, which are usually made from several boards glued together in a specific grain orientation to maintain flatness, single slabs can be more prone to warping. Additionally, most tables have an apron, which also helps keep them flat.
These single slabs or the book-match or the live-edge tables don’t really have any of that so these C-channels assist in keeping it flat the same way that the apron does or that grain orientation in the glue-up.
Recessing the Table Legs
When recessing the mounting plates for the table bases, put the table legs exactly where you want them. Then, surround the area with quarter-inch melamine or acrylic, or both and secure it with double-sided tape. Leave about a quarter-inch buffer all around to allow for seasonal wood movement. This helps prevent the table base from being locked in place, which could cause the wood to crack over time.
Creating a boundary at the base in order to mimic a jig
Credit: Blacktail Studio
When constructing your table base, beside metal legs, salvaged table legs are also a great option to add a unique and stylish element to your living space. Salvaged industrial table legs can enhance your design by incorporating a strong, organic component that complements the natural beauty of the wood.
Both choices offer a different option, enabling you to customize your table to suit your style preferences and achieve a unique appearance. In order to create the ideal arrangement, it is important to understand how to attach slab legs to a table top. A secure connection ensures stability and highlights the complete look of your selected legs.
Before you finish your table, cover it with painter's plastic. This helps prevent one side from absorbing moisture from the air, which can cause warping or twisting. After you finish on both sides of the table, you can remove the plastic.
Laying down plastic to help prevent wood warping before applying the finish
Credit: Blacktail Studio
Gravity Assisted Touch-Ups
Shellac to prevent stains from the touch-ups
Credit: Blacktail Studio
This slab had quite a few cracks in it. If you’re concerned about the crack near the end, you can add a single bow tie on the underside. This was going to be a little bit cleaner.
Using a little gravity-assist here
Credit: Blacktail Studio
One solitary bow tie in this one
Credit: Blacktail Studio
Live Edge Cleanup
Using epoxy here there’s no real reason not to use glue; epoxy works a little bit better when you’re doing something that isn’t clamped but wood glue would have worked just as well.
New nylon wheels from amazon
A better way to clean up live edge without really marring the surface is to use nylon brushes. They work very effectively and are quite affordable.
Should read:
- How to Attach Table Legs to Epoxy Table: A Guide for Beginners
- How to Attach Metal Legs With Glue for Granite Table Top
Fixing Micro-Pit
CA glue touch-ups
Credit: Blacktail Studio
They came right back
Credit: Blacktail Studio
Carve the pits into a little groove, then fill
Credit: Blacktail Studio
Prepare a trim router
Credit: Blacktail Studio
DIY sanding glove
Credit: Blacktail Studio
Spraying water to raise the grain between grits
Credit: Blacktail Studio
One of the most frustrating parts of working with epoxy is filling these little micro pits. it’s a little counter-intuitive and that’s actually to make the holes bigger because what happens is those little pits kind of form an air pocket and they won’t allow that CA glue to penetrate so you can carve out a little groove and then fill them with just regular clear Ca glue and believe it or not the clear actually matches the black just perfectly then hit it with the sander and those microbubbles will disappear finally.
Table Finishing Process
Progress through sandpaper grits: 100, 120, 150, and 180
Credit: Blacktail Studio
Begin sanding with 100 grit, then move up to 120, followed by 150, and finish with 180. Using water between each step helps raise the grain, leading to a smoother, more polished finish.
Do two coats of Rubio, let it cure, then Ceramic
Credit: Blacktail Studio
The Black Four Ceramic is more like car wax than paint. It’s not a clear coat; it’s simply a hard wax oil. It provides a durable, natural finish that’s excellent for finishing surfaces. However, it’s completely different from Black Fiesta Ceramic. For an even better finish, apply two coats of Rubio Monocoat over a couple of days.
Rubio Monocoat is the key to your finish, giving both color and protection. After it dries for the usual seven days, you can move on to applying Black Forest Ceramic. It’s versatile and can go over any finish—whether it’s polyurethane, lacquer, Osmo, or something else—just make sure the base layer is fully cured first.
Ceramic Finish for Wood Tables.
Applying Black Ceramic too early can cause issues. If it's put on a finish that hasn't fully cured, it might trap moisture and stop the finish from curing properly. Waiting the full seven days is key. For the application, just use the applicator pad and work in small sections. When the surface starts to feel rough and pulls on the pad, give it a light spritz of water and let the weight of the hand handle any excess.
No need to buff or remove too much—just work it in until it feels a bit tougher. Then, gently buff off any extra with a damp microfiber cloth. This method adds a nice contrast, depth, and a touch of sheen to your table. Remember to apply it to the edges too, but there's no need for the underside. It offers great protection, as shown by water tests where it beads up much better than just Rubio.
Just a mist of water on a microfiber
Credit: Blacktail Studio
Work in each section until you get some resistance
Credit: Blacktail Studio
Test fitting the legs by Flowyline Design
Credit: Blacktail Studio
Cam did a quick test fit of these metal table legs by Flowyline Design before he got it packed up for delivery. While metal table legs offer a sleek and modern look, consider trying salvaged industrial table legs for a unique and natural touch. It’s also a great chance to review how to attach slab legs to a table top. This crucial step ensures everything aligns perfectly and the legs are securely attached.
If you are a fan of mid-century modern and industrial modern furniture, check out some of Flowyline Design’s metal table legs to be used for a slab like this:
Nature-inspired metal table legs for modern dining rooms
Credit: Flowyline Design
Buy now: 413 Ramo Dining Furniture Leg; 106B Namu Coffee Table Base
Pedestal table bases for large cookie tables
Credit: Flowyline Design
Buy now: 213 Wishbone Table Base; 311S Lithe Table Base
Turning a slab into a $6000 desk is all about bringing out the best in a unique piece of wood and choosing the right elements to showcase its beauty. Salvaging a less common wood species can result in an extraordinary desk, and using salvaged table legs can add a special, distinctive touch. Knowing how to attach slab legs to a table top is key to achieving both cohesive stability and stylish look. Excited to begin your woodworking project? Follow us for more useful blogs. At Flowyline Design, we don’t just bring your dream furniture to life; we also help you craft your own unique creations!
