What do you think about a perfect picnic table? It has a round shape? It is made of wood? Or it is expensive that is taken from a store?

Maybe. But have you ever thought about a picnic table with a unique shape like an octagon? Trust me, this octagon picnic table could attract every look from people by its elegant appearance. And you have no difficulty in making it on your own, especially with products from Flowyline Design.

Why should you build an octagon picnic table?

Absolutely for its one-of-a-kind shape. Octagon shape makes your picnic table smarter and different from others. It’s sturdy, weather-resistant, and cheap to build. It easily fits six to eight adults around it. It only takes a day to build a classic outdoor picnic table.

This picnic table is a quick, low-cost build—if you have a spare Friday afternoon you'll have it done in time for the weekend. Because the wood is pressure-treated, you don't even need to paint or stain it—leave it as-is and you're good to go.

How to build an octagon picnic table?

Materials

• 2 1/2 inch screws
• 2-1/2" Pocket Hole Screws
• Elmer's Wood Glue
• Elmer's Wood Filler
• 120 grit sandpaper
• primer
• wood conditioner
• paint
• paintbrush

Cutting List

• 1 - 2x4 @ 62" (Longest Point - Both ends tapered back at 30 degrees off square, NOT parallel to each other)
• 2 - 2x4 @ 30 1/2" (Longest Point - One end at 30 degrees off square)
• 4 - 2x4 @ 29 15/16" (Longest Point - One end at 30 degrees off square, another end at a point, 45 degrees off square)
• 8 - 2x6 @ 4 9/16" (Longest Point - Both ends at 22 1/2 degrees off square)
• 8 - 2x6 @ 9 1/2" (Longest Point - Both ends at 22 1/2 degrees off square)
• 8 - 2x6 @ 14 7/16" (Longest Point - Both ends at 22 1/2 degrees off square)
• 8 - 2x6 @ 19 5/16" (Longest Point - Both ends at 22 1/2 degrees off square)
• 8 - 2x6 @ 24 1/4" (Longest Point - Both ends at 22 1/2 degrees off square)
• 8 - 2x6 @ 32 15/16" (Both ends at 30 degrees off square, parallel to each other)
• 1 - 2x4 @ 95" (Longest Point - Both ends tapered in at 30 degrees off square)
• 2 - 2x4 @ 46 3/4" (Longest Point - One end at 30 degrees off square)
• 4 - 2x4 @ 46 7/16" (Longest Point - One end at 30 degrees off square, another end at a point, 45 degrees off square)
• 8 - 2x6 @ 31 13/16" (Longest Point - Both ends at 22 1/2 degrees off square)
• 8 - 2x6 @ 36 3/4" (Both ends at 30 degrees off square, parallel to each other)

Instructions

Step 1:

Add a diagram so that you can take measurements of the legroom.

Step 2:

It starts with a big X. Be sure you are working on a very flat, level surface. Use pocket hole screws and glue to the joint in the center as shown above. You could also use metal straps or plates but you can only place the metal plates on the bottom side.

Step 3:

You will then need to carefully cut the remaining supports as shown above (click for a larger view) and add, with 22 1/2 degree angles between the "spokes". Pocket holes or metal brackets.

Step 4:

Layout all of the tabletop boards first and adjust as necessary. The tabletop boards should meet in the center of the "spokes". Screw down, two screws per board, predrilled.

Step 5:

Place a level on the top of the feet to check the feet for level. Then you will know that your legs are being screwed on correctly.

Step 6:

Mark all of your legs as shown above. Start by adding the longest remaining support as shown above.

TIP: For added strength, rotate the full-length support to 90 degrees from the full-length tabletop support. This is shown incorrectly above.

Step 7:

Then add the two supports cut straight on one end as shown above.

Step 8:

As you did the tabletop, add the remaining lower supports.

Step 9:

Flip the table back over and screw down the seat boards as shown above. This time, start to the outside and work your way inward.

Preparation Instructions: Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with a damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Make your project easier with metal outdoor table legs/bases from Flowyline, why not?

Metal outdoor table legs and bases from Flowyline Design are highly crafted by handmade metal furniture makers, so they are prolonged to use, unique look, contemporary elegance, are budget-saving, easy-setting, and are easy to care for.

Go especially well with any of your table or benchtops, be it the live edge, wood, or epoxy, be it your custom table, dining table, console table, or oval butcher block table.

These metal table legs and bases are always packed nicely, ready to be delivered to spruce up your living space, and come equipped with adjustable levelers hidden well in the feet. All you need to do is to bolt the base on your table or benchtop and go.