How to build an outdoor table with concrete top
Most of us think of concrete as a practical material, but it’s also one of the most versatile decorative materials around. It can take on just about any color or shape. And surface treatment options are endless.
Concrete furniture looks amazing and really is cheap to do. Tables can be made without expensive or specialty tools and will jazz up your home or office in no time! 

Why should you build an outdoor concrete table?

If you want a tabletop that’s elegant enough for any indoor setting and tough enough to withstand outdoor weather, you’ve found it. Tables similar to this one sell for hundreds at garden centers and outdoor furniture stores. But you can make one yourself for $50 to $100.

DIY concrete table

Your cost will depend mostly on the materials you choose for the base and the concrete mix you use. You don’t need any special skills or tools, though a table saw and an air-powered brad nailer will speed up building the form. Give yourself half a day to build the form and pour the concrete and an hour to build the table base. A few days after casting the top, you’ll spend a couple of hours removing the form, chipping the edges, and applying a sealer.

 

How to build a DIY outdoor concrete table?

Equipment / Tools

  • Caulking gun
  • Rubber mallet, hammer drill, or orbital sander
  • Hacksaw
  • Tape measure
  • Cordless drill
  • Garden hoe
  • Wheelbarrow or mixing tub
  • Orbital sander
  • Sandpaper
  • Circular saw
  • Speed Square
  • Beveling tool (marble or ball bearing)
  • Waterproof gloves
  • Breathing protection
  • Eye protection
  • Shop vacuum
  • Clean rags
  • Drill bits and drivers

Materials

  • Countertop concrete mix
  • 1 sheet melamine-faced medium-density fiberboard (MDF) panel, common thickness 3/4-inch
  • 1 roll 10-gauge remesh
  • 1 1/2-inch screw
  • Concrete sealer
  • Silicone caulk
  • Silicone adhesive
  • Mineral oil or spray release agent
  • 1 5-pound bag Portland cement
  • Acrylic cement fortifier
  • Instructions
  • Cut Form Bottom and Sidewalls
  • With the circular saw, cut the MDF into:
  • Form Bottom: 1 piece, 38 inches by 26 inches

Instructions:

Step 1: Cut Form Bottom and Sidewalls

With the circular saw, cut the MDF into:
  • Form Bottom: 1 piece, 38 inches by 26 inches
  • Long Sidewalls: 2 pieces, every 38 inches by 2 1/4 inches
  • Short Sidewalls: 2 pieces, each 27 1/2 inches by 2 1/4 inches

Step 2: Attach Form's Long Sidewalls
Lay the form bottom on a table. On one of the long sides of the form bottom, attach a long sidewall. Do this by first drilling six pilot holes in a line on the long sidewall. Space the pilot holes equally apart and 3/8 inches from the edge of the long sidewall.

Then, attach the long sidewall to one of the long sides of the form bottom. Use a cordless drill and 1 1/2-inch screw to attach the board to the bottom. Check for square with the Speed Square. Repeat on the other side of the form bottom with the remaining long sidewall.

Step 3: Attach Form's Short Sidewalls
Similar to the long sidewall, drill pilot holes in one of the short sidewalls and attach it to one of the form bottom's short sides. The only difference is that you will use four screws instead of six. Make sure that the ends of the short sidewall overlap the ends of the long sidewalls.

Step 4: Add Bevel
With the caulking gun, inject the silicone caulk into all 90-degree joints. Bevel the caulk with any rounded item such as marble, ball bearing, or glue stick. Parallel tracks of excess will develop. Leave the excess caulk in place for now.

Step 5: Remove Silicone Excess
Once the caulk has dried, slice off the excess caulk with a straight razor blade or with your fingernail.

Step 6: Cut Remesh
With the hacksaw, cut the remesh to 36 inches by 24 inches. If you are using remesh with a 6-inch grid pattern, you should have 24 full grid squares (6 on one side, 4 on the other side).

Step 7: Add Release Agent
Clean the inside of the form with the shop vacuum. Spray the inside of the form with the release agent or, if using mineral oil, wipe on the oil with a clean cotton rag.

WARNING
Make sure you use mineral oil, not mineral spirits (a flammable product).

Step 8: Pour Concrete
Wearing rubber gloves and safety glasses, use the garden hoe to mix the concrete in a wheelbarrow or masonry mixing tub according to the manufacturer's instructions. Pour to the halfway point (3/4 inch).

Step 9: Add Remesh and Continue Pour
At the halfway point, add the remesh. Press the remesh into the concrete. Make sure that you maintain a 1-inch border between the remesh and all sidewalls.

Pour the rest of the concrete until it reaches the top of the sidewalls.

Step 10: Vibrate Concrete
Vibrate the sidewalls with a hammer drill or orbital sander to settle the concrete and eliminate voids.
Tip
Alternatively, you can rap the sidewalls with a rubber mallet to create vibration.

Step 11: Trowel Concrete
Add more concrete as needed, since vibrating will cause the concrete to settle. Trowel the concrete smooth.

Step 12: Remove Form
Let the concrete cure for two to three days. Use the drill to unscrew the screws holding the sidewalls to the bottom of the form. Carefully pull the sidewalls off. With a helper, turn the concrete table over. Remove the bottom of the form.

Step 13: Sand Concrete
Sand the tabletop with 220 grit sandpaper on an oscillating sander or by hand. Mix a small amount of Portland cement and acrylic fortifier to fill voids, then sand again. Round off sharp edges. Round the beveled edges, too.

Step 14: Seal Concrete
Clean the tabletop with the shop vacuum. Apply three to four coats of concrete sealer. Each coat must thoroughly dry before you apply the next coat. Upon completion, apply countertop wax.

Step 15: Add Tabletop to Table Base
Apply the concrete tabletop to the table base with silicone adhesive.

Make your project easier with metal table legs/bases from Flowyline, why not?

Metal outdoor table legs and bases from Flowyline Design are highly crafted by handmade metal furniture makers, so they are prolonged to use, unique look, contemporary elegance, are budget-saving, easy-setting, and are easy to care for. They can hold up to 500lb top, so completely suitable for the concrete top.

Go especially well with any of your table or benchtops, be it the live edge, wood, or epoxy, be it your custom table, dining table, console table, or oval butcher block table.
These metal table legs and bases are always packed nicely, ready to be delivered to spruce up your living space, and come equipped with adjustable levelers hidden well in the feet. All you need to do is to bolt the base on your table or benchtop and go.