How to build a workshop table

There are many struggles that can be faced when you work in a workshop. Installing workbenches and work tables for workshops can be extremely beneficial for a number of different reasons.

While premade work tables can be costly and you may not even be able to find a workshop table that appeals to you, there is an alternative. You can build your own work table just by following the step below.

Read this article because it offers step-by-step instructions on how to build a workshop table, ensuring that even beginners can create a sturdy and functional workbench for their DIY projects.

Why should you build a workshop table?

Heavyweight capacity - As well as having a high weight capacity, industrial workbenches, and work tables are extremely durable and high quality. Meaning you’ll get the most out of your initial investment as they can withstand frequent rigors use.

Ergonomic Design - It can help improve productivity and workshop efficiency by installing a good quality industrial workbench or work table.

Can Utilize Vertical Space - Installing a work table in your workshop can also help you utilize the vertical space around it. Shelves or other workshop storage solutions can be installed around it, meaning optimum organization and efficiency.

Improve Profitability - Installing workbenches and work tables in your workshop can improve productivity and efficiency, this can lead to increased profits as more jobs are getting done but still to the same high standard as before.

Manage Your Workspace - This gives your employees a little bit more flexibility and freedom when it comes to working and storing tools and materials.

Safer Working Environment - As an employer, you have a legal responsibility to ensure that your working environment is safe for employees. Workbenches and worktables for workshops allow you to boost safety.

Not only do workbenches come with clever storage solutions, but they can also be modified to what works for each individual warehouse. This helps ensure that all of the tools and equipment used aren’t just lying around and can be stored safely and securely.

This workshop table is simple enough and cheap enough that you can make it in the morning, and yet it's big enough for serious woodworking and hobby projects. Add pegboard, a bench vise, and a few other accessories and you'll have a serious work center.

Ready to take your DIY projects to the next level? Dive into our article for a comprehensive breakdown of how to build workshop table DIY that will be the envy of your peers.

How to build a workshop table?

Tools Required

  • Circular saw

  • Cordless drill

  • Miter saw

  • Safety glasses

  • Straightedge

  • Tape measure

Materials Required

  • 1-5/8-in. drywall screws

  • 2x4s

  • 3-in. drywall screws

  • 4 x 8 x 1/2-in. plywood

This sturdy 30-in. x 6-ft.-long DIY workbench is the ultimate in simplicity. It is crafted using just fifteen 8-foot-long 2x4s and a single sheet of 1/2-inch plywood. Remarkably, it serves as a superior tool workbench compared to those available at significantly higher prices in the market.

Discover the process of constructing this workbench by carefully following the cutting diagrams. Start by cutting the plywood tops using Figure B as your guide, and then proceed to cut all the framing components according to Figure C. Make sure to use the specified lengths from the Cutting List for accuracy.

You can either screw the framing together with 3-inch screws or hand- or power-nail it together with 3-inch nails. Screw the plywood down with 1-5/8-inch screws.

To make these project plans even easier to follow, we've shaded the sections that correspond to each step. Continue reading to discover how to construct this clever compact work table featuring storage.

Step 1 Assemble the Workbench Frames

To start creating a workshop table, assemble the DIY wood worktable frames for the DIY worktable surface and the lower shelf of the workshop bench.


How to build a workshop table

Step 2 Attach the Legs

Screw the legs to the frame of the work surface.

workshop table diy

Step 3 Attach Lower Frame

Flip the workshop table over and connect the lower shelf frame to it.

Pro Tip: Utilize gallon-sized paint cans to provide support for the lower shelf frame when you're attaching it to the main worktable legs.

diy outdoor bar table

Attach Lower Frame

Step 4 Attach the Work Surfaces

Attach the plywood work surfaces to the frames.

Attach the Work Surfaces

Step 5 Build the Top Shelf Frame

Follow the instructions to put together the top shelf frame.

Build the Top Shelf Frame

Step 6 Finish the Top Shelf

Include the plywood to complete the top shelf.

Finish the Top Shelf

Step 7 Add the Top Shelf Legs

Turn the top shelf upside down and then affix the legs to it.

Add the Top Shelf Legs

Step 8 Put it All Together

Screw the top shelf legs to the workshop table and add the backer boards.

Put it All Together

Step 9 Additional Accessories

Add Lighting

Note: A well-lit environment is essential for any workspace. Buy an inexpensive 4-foot shop light and screw it right to the underside of the top shelf.

Add Power

Note: Attach a power strip to one of the legs, and you'll have all the electrical power you need at your fingertips.

Pro Tip: Forget clumsy extension cords. You can also utilize the power strip to manage the lighting.

Add a Vise

Note: Attach a table vise securely to one of the corners of the workbench.

Pro Tip: A quality table vise may cost as much as the worktable itself. However, once you have one, you'll discover just how essential it is for your workbench, and you'll be pleasantly surprised by how frequently you put it to use.

How to build a work table out of 2x4 


  • Planer
  • Miter Saw
  • Circular Saw
  • Drill
  • Hand Planer
  • Sander
  • Hot Glue Gun
  • Safety Gear


  • 2x4, 32 
  • Carriage Bolts, 8
  • Rod Coupling Nuts, 8 
  • Rubber Furniture Cups, 8 
  • Pack of Hot Glue Sticks, 1
  • Box of 2.5" Screws, 1
  • Simpson Tie plates, 16
  • Wood Varnish, 1
  • Wood Glue, 1/3 gal 


Step 1: Preparing the wood 

Take a little time to square up the sides of each 2x4 to help improve the contact area for gluing in the next step. I suggest doing this for all 4 sides of the boards since most lumber has a fair amount of defects. 

Preparing the wood

Step 2: Glueing

  1. Divide your boards into even number groups.
  2. Make sure that each group aligns their crowning (bows in the same direction) consistently, aiming for maximum uniformity.
  3. After you've got everything arranged neatly, start by generously spreading glue on the upper surface of the initial board. Then, place the second board on top of it. Continue doing this until you've stacked all the boards, and remember that you don't need to apply glue to the final board.
  4. Secure pipe clamps at approximately one-foot intervals, switching between the top and bottom positions as you go.
  5. Before you completely tighten the clamps, be sure to confirm that the boards are still properly aligned.
  6. Ensure that every clamp is securely fastened by revisiting them multiple times, using a method that begins at the center and gradually moves outward.
  7. Give it 24 hours to dry
  8. Repeat this step for each group

Step 3: Plane each section 

After the glue has fully dried, pass each section through the planer, working on both the upper and lower sides.

Monitor the ultimate thickness of each section and ensure they align with one another by the conclusion.

Plane each section

Step 4: Glue the sections together

  1. Align the sections together in a way they fit best. Even after all the prep work, there will likely be some bowing in each section. Match these as best as you can.
  2. Stand them on the side and apply glue to the surfaces that will connect. Glue only needs to be applied to one of the surfaces that connect together. Most of the glue gets squeezed out so there's no need to waste it.
  3. Secure good alignment between sections and apply the clamps in the alternating top and bottom positions.
  4. Give it 24 hours to dry.
Glue the sections together

Step 5: Hand plane the imperfections 

Giving these joints a bit of affection with a hand planer will help make them smoother.

Make sure to perform this action on both sides.

Hand plane the imperfections

Step 6: Sanding

The affectionate touch of the plane can be a bit coarse, often resulting in tiny indentations after each stroke. However, you can easily smooth these out by using sandpaper with increasingly finer grits, beginning with 80 and finishing with around 250.

You should find that performing 3 sanding steps is sufficient and will yield a satisfactory outcome.


Step 7: Trimming the ends 

Use a straight edge (level) and square to get a nice line to even out the ends of your tabletop.

With a circular saw cut along the line.

Trimming the ends

Step 8: Building supports 

I fastened a couple of 2x4's together to make base support to attach legs.

Underneath the table, position these supports and affix them in place using wood glue and a pair of wooden clamps.

I used a Kregg jig to help seat in a few screws.

Building supports

Step 9: Making legs 

By gluing together a couple of boards and securing them with some screws, I was able to build a few legs.

Note: The supports in the previous step were made this same way.

A board was placed on top of the supports and marked underneath to easily assure proper distances between legs.

Next, I secured the legs to the table using the Simpson Tie Plates, and I was pleased to discover that they provided excellent stability, effectively keeping the legs in place.

A 1.5" gap was left on the backside of the table to allow space for additional support (shown in a later step).

Making legs
gluing together

Step 10: Cross supports and beams

Additional supports were added to give rigidity to the legs, front to back.

These supports were added to the backside of the legs to resist side-to-side motion.

I used clamps to align the boards and then marked the spots where I needed to make cuts. This method is slightly quicker and more convenient than taking precise measurements.

Cross supports and beams

Step 11: Footholds 

Under each leg was drilled a hole using a spade bit.

The proper depth needed can be marked off using a piece of tape on the bit.

The rod coupling nuts were then pushed into the holes. These will hold the feet

Using bolts, furniture cups, and hot glue, you can create custom leveling feet for the bench.


Step 12: A finished look

I used a palm router to give the table a gentle, decorative edge.

I coated it with a few layers of varnish to prevent staining and maintain the wood's natural colors.

Let it dry overnight, and it will be all set!

A finished look

Make your project easier with metal outdoor table legs/bases from Flowyline, why not?

Metal outdoor table legs and bases from Flowyline Design are highly crafted by handmade metal furniture makers, so they are prolonged to use, unique look, contemporary elegance, are budget-saving, easy-setting, and are easy to care for. 

Go especially well with any of your table or benchtops, be it the live edge, wood, or epoxy, be it your custom table, dining table, console table, or oval butcher block table.

These metal table legs and bases are always packed nicely, ready to be delivered to spruce up your living space, and come equipped with adjustable levelers hidden well in the feet. All you need to do is to bolt the base on your table or benchtop and go.

By reading this article, you'll gain invaluable insights from top-ranked sources on how to build a workshop table, ensuring your DIY project's success with expert guidance and step-by-step instructions.

How- to

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