When we first moved into our 1940s craftsman home, the hardwood floors were hiding under layers of carpet and decades of neglect. We knew they had potential. But our team had no idea what we were getting into when we decided to learn how to restain hardwood floors ourselves.
And yes, we did save a thousand dollars by refinishing hardwood floors on our own, but we also made some rookie mistakes that cost us an extra day of work. So, if you're wondering how to sand and restain hardwood floors without hiring a pro, here's everything we learned. Including what we wish someone had told us before we started!
What Does "Restaining" Mean? (and Do You Even Need It?)
Refinishing and restaining aren't the same thing. We thought they were interchangeable. They're not.
- Refinishing = Sanding down to bare wood + applying new finish (polyurethane)
- Restaining = Refinishing + changing the wood color with stain
- Resurfacing = Light buffing + new topcoat (no sanding to bare wood)
We needed full refinishing because our floors had deep scratches, water stains, and uneven color from UV exposure. Yet, if your floors just look dull or have light surface scratches, you might get away with resurfacing instead. That means way faster and more budget-friendly.
How Much Does It Cost to Restain Hardwood Floors?
Let's talk money because nobody talks about the real numbers until you're halfway into the project. We did 900 square feet covering three bedrooms. Here's what we actually spent recently:
DIY Cost Breakdown (900 sq ft):
| Item | Cost | Notes |
| Drum sander rental (3 days) | $175 — $220 | Home Depot or a rental center works. Some deliver it for free if you're lucky. |
| Edge sander rental (3 days) | $120 — $145 | For edges and corners, where the drum sander can't reach. |
| Sandpaper (multiple grits) | $85 — $120 | 36, 60, 100, and 220 grit |
| Wood filler | $25 — $35 | For filling gaps and nail holes |
| Polyurethane (water-based, 2 gallons) | $160 — $220 | Premium options run around $80 to $110 per gallon. |
| Applicator pads & brushes | $45 — $60 | Should get quality lambswool applicators, or it'll leave streaks everywhere. |
| Tack cloths & cleaning supplies | $30 — $40 | You'll need more than you think |
| Plastic sheeting & tape | $35 — $45 | Essential for sealing off rooms |
| Shop vac filter replacement | $20 — $30 | Get high-filtration filters and plan on replacing them 2 — 3 times during the project. |
| Total DIY Cost | $695 — $915 | For 900 sq ft |
Professional Cost for the Same Job:
- Realistic range (2025 — 2026): $4,500 — $7,200
- Per square foot: $5.00 — $8.00/sq ft
- Budget option: $2,700 — $3,600 ($3 — 4/sq ft, but you'd rather expect basic service)
- Your potential savings with DIY: $3,585 - $6,285
What About Just Sanding?
If you're asking "how much to sand and restain hardwood floors" separately:
- Sanding-only service: $0.50 — $3.00 per sq ft (Typical: $1.50 — $2.50/sq ft)
- DIY sanding with rentals: ~$0.60/sq ft (equipment + supplies, no finish)
- DIY complete (sanding + finish): ~$0.75/sq ft
The rental equipment costs the same whether you're doing one room or the whole house. That said, larger projects give you a better return on doing it yourself.
Can You Restain Hardwood Floors Without Sanding?
We see this question a lot: "How to restain hardwood floors without sanding."
You can't truly restain without sanding. Here's why:
The stain needs to soak into bare wood to work. If there's polyurethane or wax on your floors, and there almost always is, the stain has nowhere to go. It just sits on top and looks terrible. Blotchy, uneven, as you did it wrong, even though you followed the directions.
What you CAN do without sanding, but not really recommended:
- Screen and recoat: Light buffing + new poly (same color, refreshed look)
- Use a toner: Some polyurethanes have tint, but it won't look like a real stain
- Apply wood floor refresher: Temporary solution, lasts 6 — 12 months
Our team actually tried one of those "restain without sanding" products in our hallway first. Looked okay for about 3 months, then started peeling. That's why we ended up sanding it anyway.
How to Restain Hardwood Floors Yourself: A Step-by-Step Process
Below is the full breakdown of how to sand and restain hardwood floors: This is the complete guide to refinishing hardwood floors DIY-style.
Timeline overview:
- Day 1: Prep and first sanding pass
- Day 2: Fine sanding, edge work, cleaning
- Day 3: Stain application (if changing color)
- Day 4: First poly coat
- Day 5: Second poly coat
- Day 6: Third poly coat
- Day 7+: Cure time (48 — 72 hours before walking)
Step 1: Prep Work (Don't Skip This)
- Removed ALL furniture
- Took down curtains and blinds (dust gets everywhere)
- Pulled up quarter-round molding with a pry bar
- Sealed air vents with plastic and painter's tape
- Set up a box fan in the window, blowing OUT
- Walked the entire floor with a nail punch and hammer
Pro tip: Use a magnet taped to a stick to find hidden nails.
Step 2: Fill Gaps and Holes
Before sanding, you should fill gaps wider than 2 — 3mm with wood filler. Here is how you can do it:
- Fill slightly ABOVE the floor level (it shrinks as it dries)
- Use a putty knife and wipe away excess immediately
- Let it dry overnight
How to restain hardwood floors Step 2
Photo: YouTube | Family Handyman
Where we squeaked: We found loose boards by walking around. Drove those nails deeper, filled the holes. Squeaking stopped.
Are you finding squeaky spots? Walking around the room slowly and marking each one with painter's tape. Afterward, you drove those nails deeper and filled the holes with wood filler. The squeaking will stop completely.
Step 3: The Sanding Process (How to Refinish Hardwood Floors Like a Pro)
The 3rd step will make you sore the next day. Here's our how to sand and refinish hardwood floors yourself sanding sequence:
1. First Pass — Drum Sander (36-grit)
- NEVER stop moving while the drum is down (you'll create gouges)
- Think of it like an airplane. Lower the drum while you're moving forward, lift it while you're still moving.
- Overlap each pass by 50%
- Go WITH the grain, not across it
The dust is absolutely insane at this stage. Wear a real respirator, not just a paper dust mask.
How much to sand and restain hardwood floors
Photo: YouTube | Family Handyman
2. Second Pass — Drum Sander (60-grit)
This smooths out all those 36-grit scratches. Goes faster because you're not cutting through old finish anymore.
3. Third Pass — Drum Sander (100-grit)
The final smoothing for the main floor area. By this point, you're looking at beautiful, even bare wood. Honestly, this is kind of emotional after all that work.
4. Edge Sanding (All 3 Grits)
The edge sander is a beast. It's loud, aggressive, and hard to control. We recommend:
- Start on a low speed to get the feel
- Use both hands
- Move in smooth arcs along the baseboard
- Change grits just like the drum sander (36 → 60 → 100)
5. Hand Scraping Corners
The edge sander is round, so it can't get into corners. We used a carbide scraper for the tight spots. Tedious but necessary. There's no way around it.
Step 4: Clean Like Your Life Depends On It
- First vacuum immediately after sanding (same day)
- Let dust settle overnight with windows closed
- Second vacuum the next morning with a FRESH filter
- Tack cloth the entire floor on hands and knees
- Damp mop with clean water (barely damp, not wet)
- Tack cloth again
Step 5: Apply Stain (Optional, But You Should)
We wanted to go darker, so we used Minwax Dark Walnut. If you're keeping the natural wood color, you can skip straight to Step 6.
How to restain hardwood floors with stain:
- Test first: You stain the inside of a closet to see the color.
- Work in sections: Do 3 — 4 floorboards at a time, about 4 feet long
- Apply with the grain: Use a foam applicator brush and work quickly
- Wipe off excess: After 5 — 10 minutes, you use lint-free cloths to wipe WITH the grain
- Avoid lap marks: Keep a wet edge. Don't let sections dry before you blend them together.
How to sand and refinish hardwood floors yourself in step 5
Photo: YouTube | Family Handyman
Step 6: Apply Polyurethane Finish (Finishing Wood Floors the Right Way)
Woodworkers like us often choose water-based polyurethane instead of oil-based for finishing wood floors. Here's why:
| Water-Based Poly | Oil-Based Poly | |
| Drying Time | Dries in 4 — 6 hours | Dries in 8 — 16 hours |
| Odor | Low odor | Strong smell for days |
| Color | Dries clear | Amber tint (yellows over time) |
| Durability | Slightly less durable | More durable |
| Application Speed | Can apply 2 — 3 coats/day | Max 1 coat/day |
From our perspective, water-based is easier to apply for DIYers. You can quickly finish three coats in two days instead of waiting three.
Application process:
First coat:
- Cut in edges with a 3-inch brush (go with the grain)
- Use a lambswool applicator on a pole for the main area
- Apply in smooth, even strokes following the wood grain
- Don't shake the can because it'll create bubbles. So, you should stir gently instead.
- Work quickly to keep a wet edge as you go.
- Dry time: 4 — 6 hours
Between coats:
- Let it dry completely (we waited 6 hours to be safe)
- Lightly scuff sand with 220-grit on a pole sander
- Vacuum thoroughly
- Tack cloth the whole floor
- Apply the next coat
How to restain hardwood floors final coat
Photo: YouTube | Family Handyman
As usual, it's best to apply 3 coats total. The first coat looked terrible (patchy and thin). The second looked better. The third looked professional.
Step 7: Cure and Protect
In fact, dry is different from cured.
- Dry = You can walk on it in socks (24 hours)
- Cured = Polyurethane has reached full hardness (3 — 7 days)
As you can see, it's a must to wait 72 hours before moving furniture back. Even then, you'll need to use felt pads under everything and lift (didn't drag) pieces into place.
5 Typical Mistakes When Restaining Hardwood Floors
- Not changing the sandpaper often enough: Don't try to stretch the belts to save a few bucks. Terrible idea. Dull sandpaper generates heat, and before we knew it, we had burn marks scattered all over the floor.
- Rushing the cleaning between coats: We ended up with debris stuck in our finish. Had to sand it out and re-coat the whole thing.
- Using basic applicator pads: These pads we bought shed fibers straight into the poly while we were applying it. We noticed it on the first coat, stopped, drove back to the store, and bought lambswool pads for 15 dollars more. Should've just done that from the start.
- Not ventilating properly: Even water-based poly needs airflow. You might have lightheaded halfway through and had to take a break.
- Walking on the floor too soon: All you have to do is be patient. Otherwise, you'll have to spend the next day sanding and redoing that entire section.
FAQs
1. Can I Restain My Hardwood Floors?
Yes, you can restain your hardwood floors if they're solid wood (not engineered) and have enough thickness left for sanding. Most solid hardwood can be refinished 4 — 7 times before the boards become too thin.
2. Can You Restain Hardwood Floors Without Sanding?
No, you cannot restain hardwood floors without sanding. The stain needs to penetrate bare wood, and the existing finish prevents this. You can screen and recoat to refresh the finish, but changing the color requires sanding down to bare wood.
3. Can You Stain over Existing Hardwood Floors Without Sanding?
No, you cannot successfully stain over existing hardwood floors without sanding. Stain penetrates bare wood, and the polyurethane finish prevents penetration. You can apply tinted polyurethane or floor refresher products, but true restaining requires sanding to bare wood.
4. Can I Use a Hardwood Floor Refinishing Kit Instead of Renting Equipment?
No, you can't. Hardwood floor refinishing kits work for minor refreshing on floors in good condition. That means they're not a replacement for proper refinishing if you have damage, deep scratches, or want to change the color.
5. Is Water-based Or Oil-based Polyurethane Better for Finishing Wood Floors?
We recommend water-based poly for DIY projects. It dries in just 4 — 6 hours (vs. 8-16 for oil-based), has low odor, dries clear, and you can apply 2 — 3 coats per day. Oil-based is more durable but harder to work with and yellows over time.
How to Restain Hardwood Floors: Final Thoughts
Based on everything we learned about how to restore hardwood floors, here are our top recommendations before you start:
- Rent better equipment: The basic drum sander might be hard for you to control. It's better to rent it from a specialty flooring store.
- Buy 50% more sandpaper than you think you need: We ran out of 100-grit halfway through and had to make an extra trip.
- Pace yourself: Don't try to finish everything in one day. Take breaks every 45 — 60 minutes. This is a 3 — 4 day project for a reason.
- Test stain on an actual floorboard from your room: Closet wood can be different from main floor wood due to sun exposure. Pull up a floor vent and test on the actual boards you'll be staining, or test in an inconspicuous corner.
- Invest in quality knee pads: You're going to spend 6 — 8 hours on your hands and knees between edging, hand scraping, and applying finish. Good knee pads are worth every penny.
The transformation was worth it. Every blister, every hour of sanding, every layer of dust we vacuumed up three times. Seeing what was hidden under all those layers for decades made the whole mess worthwhile.
So, if you're ready to learn how to refinish hardwood floors yourself in your own home, take your time, follow the steps, and don't skip the prep work. We almost did a few times when we got impatient, and we're glad we didn't. Your floors can look incredible for the next 10 to 15 years if you do it right.
Still have questions about how to restain hardwood floors? Contact us anytime, we're happy to share more lessons from the trenches. We post new blogs every week at Flowyline, so check back if this was helpful. Thank you for reading!