What will you do after a long exhausted working week? Nothing is more suitable than a barbecue party with your family and friends or simply just a chill moment with a cup of coffee in your garden, I bet. These are reasons why you should make a picnic table for your own house. Build this picnic table and you'll be able to enjoy barbecues, dinners, cocktail parties, and tons of other outdoor fun and recreation in your own yard.
Why should you build a DIY picnic table?
There are good reasons for this being the classic picnic table.
It’s sturdy, weather-resistant, and cheap to build. It easily fits six to eight adults around it. It only takes a day to build a classic outdoor picnic table.
This picnic table is a quick, low-cost build—if you have a spare Friday afternoon you'll have it done in time for the weekend. Because the wood is pressure-treated, you don't even need to paint or stain it—leave it as-is and you're good to go.
What you will need
- Electric miter saw
- Speed Square
- Set of drill bits
- Tape measure
- Wrench set
- Four 2" x 8" x 8'
- Six 2" x 6" x 8'
- Five 2" x 4" x 8'
- 1/2-inch-thick scrap wood to use as spacers
Building this picnic table plan starts with choosing the right wood. Hardwood or pressure-treated boards are a popular choice, as are cedar and cypress. Pressure-treated lumber is easy to stain, durable, and budget-friendly.
If you’re unsure, ask a lumber associate in your local store what wood is best for your area. You’ll also need tools and materials such as a circular saw, miter saw drill, belt sander, sanding belts, deck screws, and wood glue.
Step 1: Cut the tabletop
Using a circular saw, cut the seat and top boards to length, cutting away cracks or splits that may be on the ends of the boards.
Use a saw guide to cut the ends.
TIP: When using a circular saw, cut with the underside of the board facing up to avoid rough edges on the finished surface.
Step 2: Cut the leg/base pieces
Cut templates for the leg braces and legs then cut to shape.
Cut tapered angles on cross pieces and cut to length.
Use a belt sander and 80-grit sanding belt to smooth.
Sand edges by clamping boards upright between the sawhorses and using a belt sander, or sand by hand.
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Step 3: Put frame together
Assemble the A-frames, clamping the top support and seat support in place.
Drill clearance holes for the cup head bolts and counterbore for nuts and washers on the inside.
TIP Drill holes are just large enough to fit the bolts snugly for a rigid frame.
Step 4: Assemble frame bolts
Hammer the cup head bolts into the holes.
Insert them all the way to seat the square part of the bolt shafts securely in the timber.
Tighten the nuts with a ratchet and socket.
Use nylon-insert locknuts to hold the joint tight and prevent it from loosening in the future.
Step 5: Assemble tabletop
Clamp the feet to position the A-frame vertically.
Set the tabletop boards in place so the outer ones are flush with the ends of the supports.
When the ends are flush and the gaps are uniform, screw the boards down.
Ensure the tabletop is square by checking all diagonals are equal.
Step 6: Attach the legs braces
From underneath, align and mark the spot where the leg braces land on the center top board.
Pre-drill and screw-fix in place.
Position center brace and screw-fix in place.
To finish, position the seat boards flush with the outside edge of the support and screw-fix.
Apply chosen finish.
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Go especially well with any of your table or benchtops, be it the live edge, wood, or epoxy, be it your custom table, dining table, console table, or oval butcher block table.
These metal table legs and bases are always packed nicely, ready to be delivered to spruce up your living space, and come equipped with adjustable levelers hidden well in the feet. All you need to do is to bolt the base on your table or benchtop and go.